---------------Entertainment

Performing Arts: Music and Theater

The island performing art scene is small compared to the fine art one, but locals definitely give it their best effort. The Maui Symphony Orchestra and Chorus perform often throughout the year in venues large and small. They fly in guest artists from Honolulu and the mainland for all major events, including an always well-attended Handels Messiah at Christmas time.

Voice, music and dance training are encouraged somewhat in Mauis youth, and there are a number of events that give young artists a chance to shine. Not to be outdone, the older would-be artistes have organized several performing arts organizations that stage various shows throughout the year. The Iao Theater is the home of Maui Community Theater, a local company that presents several shows yearly. The Maui Academy of Performing Arts is a school and a troupe, performing when and where it can. Surprisingly, the Baldwin Theater Guild (of Baldwin High School) receives some of the largest audiences on the entire island, packing in the crowds for spirited performances of music theater classics. The newest show to hit Maui is wowing the crowds and winning the hearts of critics and locals. Called 'Ulalena, it is performed nightly in the grandiose new Myth & Magic Theater. Activity brokers enthusiastically compare it to the famous Cirque du Soleil. While people who have seen Cirque can find no comparison (except that both choreographers are from Quebec,) the show is inarguably the biggest theatrical spectacle ever to hit Maui. It uses dance, music, theater and a multi-million dollar lighting system to tell the story of Mauis creation.

Concert Halls

When major acts come to Maui (which actually happens more often than one might think,) there is really only one place for them to perform: the Maui Art and Cultural Center. The outdoor amphitheater has a maximum capacity of 5,000--most of the seating being on the lawn. It has hosted acts such as Santana and Ziggy Marley. Also in the MACC is the Castle Theater. Its perfect for big-name dancers, lecturers or vocal acts that need an indoor stage.

Smaller acts can perform practically anywhere in Maui. Every major hotel has thousands of square feet of conference space, and the three major malls (Whalers Village, Lahaina Cannery and Ka'ahumanu Center) all have main stages which regularly host all kinds of entertainers.

Clubs, Bars, Nightlife

Everybody knows, if its raging nightlife you're after, you should go... to Honolulu. That said, Maui does its best to rabble-rouse once the sun goes down. There are no full-scale nightclubs on the islands, but Casanovas and newcomer Mulberry Street offer decent upscale club nights. Brewpubs Hapas (in Kihei) and Maui Brews (in Lahaina) always have something going on, and on the right night it can be a lot of fun. Moose McGillycuddys and Cheeseburger in Paradise are two live-music bars that have been around forever; expect lots of drunk tourists and lots of forbidding-looking locals. Live Hawaiian music is presented everywhere, and recently theres been a surge in the popularity of live jazz, swing and ballroom. Among the best places for dinner and dancing are Pizazz, Longhis and BJs Pizzeria.

---------------Dining

Dining in Maui is overwhelming. There are seemingly hundreds of restaurants, each better than the last, gracing every corner and nook on the island. Culinary styles hail from around the world, and some styles are unique to Maui alone. In one week--and in one town--a visitor can feast on Thai and French cuisine, fresh game and fresh fish, sandwiches, burritos, and of course, a few scoops of ridiculously decadent ice cream. Several 'dining guides' or 'activity magazines' claim to offer unbiased information, but nearly all of them are advertisements. Large restaurants all publish partial menus in these books, allowing tourists to make informed decisions about gourmet dining, while smaller ones rely on word-of-mouth or foot traffic to bring in the business. No matter how long a visit to this island lasts, its impossible to visit every place that sounds good.

Ka'anapali:

Amidst the five-star hotels and designer boutiques of this famous resort, one can find any number of fabulous restaurants. Most of them fall a bit short of world-class gastronomically, choosing to offer ambience and affordable prices in lieu of top-tier culinary masterpieces. Old favorites such as Leilanis on the Beach and Reillys Seafood feature live music, drink specials and amazing views. The lovely Hula Grill can't be beat for ambience--and the fresh seafood wins local awards, if not international ones. If seafood and steak are beginning to seem unappealing, eateries such as Basil Tomatoes and the Sheratons pricy Japanese place, Teppan Yaki Dan, offer tasty alternatives.

Buffets are big business in Ka'anapali. Unlike the ones found in Las Vegas, they are quite expensive, and the selection isn't as wide, but the quality of the food is much higher. The Westins Ko'Ala Barbecue & Seafood Buffet offers crab, fresh fish, sashimi and other delicacies. On the other end of the price spectrum, quick and cheap eats such as Jonnys Burger Joint and Maui Yogurt provide some relief for an overworked credit card.

Kahana, Kapalua, Napili:

Further along the coast the emphasis shifts from pleasing hungry crowds to pleasing educated palates. The people who visit the coast of West Maui are usually honeymooners, golfers or other discerning tourists seeking privacy and quality. Restaurants in these areas, especially in ritzy Kapalua, often earn four or five stars. Theres a cluster of good restaurants in the Kahana Gateway; namely Roys Nicolina, the Fish & Game Brewing Company and Rotisserie and for family dining, Outback Steakhouse. Nearby in the Kahana Villas, Eriks Seafood serves top quality fish and shellfish. Two of the finest restaurants in the state of Hawai'i, the Plantation House and the Anuenue Room, are located in Kapalua, on the tip of the Western coast.

As far as nightlife goes, there isn't much of it in any of these towns. All the hotels have cocktail lounges, often with live music. The bar in the Brewpub is a good spot to relax over a microbrew. Neighborhood favorites such as Dollies are popular at any time of day or night.

Lahaina:

Lahaina Town is Mauis undisputed dining and drinking hot spot. The towns layout can't be beat: All the best places are within a few short blocks of each other, meaning if one place isn't working, its easy to walk to another. The challenge in Lahaina is simply deciding where to eat each meal; the choices are endless. Upscale restaurants range from first-class French, served at Gerards, to the cutting-edge Pacific Rim creations found at David Pauls Lahaina Grill or I'o. The Feast at Lele, presented on the beach outside Pacific'o, wins awards for the best cuisine and entertainment in Maui. For exotic Asian cuisine, try Bamboo or Red Lantern (down a ways, near the Cannery). Ruths Chris serves a great steak every time, while Longhis lobster is simply to die for.

While not advertised as much, inexpensive options abound. Lahaina Coolers, a block down from Front Street, is popular with locals because of its food and its atmosphere. Cheeseburger in Paradise is a boisterous Front Street experience, as is Moose McGillycuddys. Maui Brews is a bit more low-key, but is still great for a night out. For a slice of pizza and a glass of Budweiser, head down to the Village Pizzeria at the 505 Center, or try BJs Pizzeria a few blocks down. Each one of these places features live music most nights, and turns from a daytime restaurant to an after-hours bar.

The most popular place for breakfast is the Mango Cafe' but the wait can be outrageous. Compadres also serves a decent breakfast, and Cheeseburger in Paradise recently introduced a breakfast menu, served from 8 a.m. Ali'i Mocha in the 505 Center is a wonderful place for a cup of coffee and a pastry, but for the tastiest cinnamon buns in town, one must head down a few blocks to Buns of Maui, in the Lahaina Center. At least once, it is absolutely crucial to try an authentic local-style plate lunch at Aloha Mixed Plate.

Ma'alaea:

The largely undeveloped harbor town of Ma'alaea, located between Kihei and Lahaina, is developing a reputation among savvy tourists and affluent locals. There are only a few restaurants here, but they're all noteworthy. Buzzs is famous for its enormous, sweet Tahitian prawns and award-winning Creame brulee. The Ma'alaea Harbourfront is harder to find, but has earned rave reviews for its fresh fish, which are caught fresh daily and prepared nine different ways. Merrimans Bamboo Bistro (not to be confused with the Bamboo Cafe' and Cucina di Malia are two fabulous newcomers to the Ma'alaea dining scene.

Kihei:

Dining options in Kihei range from five-star to five-dollar. Along the seemingly never-ending strip that is South Kihei Road, at least 40 restaurants, large and small, vie for the local and tourist dollars. For high-end dining, A Pacific Cafe' in Azeka II is a perennial favorite. Kihei Prime Rib and Seafood is much improved after a menu revamp and a remodel, while the Greek Bistro is gaining a solid reputation among even the most critical diners.

Mid-range restaurants abound on South Kihei, ranging from Jamesons at the Maui Coast Hotel to Margaritas, which is actually in North Kihei. Some of the best dining options are Kai Ku Ono, located below Kihei Prime Rib (the prices are approximately half what one would expect, given the atmosphere), Mack & Jacks Lobster Shack (awarded for offering the best value of any restaurant,) and Chucks Steakhouse, another longtime favorite. In terms of nightlife, the local vote goes to Hapas Brew Haus, where each night brings a different theme. Kai Ku Ono has a very pleasant bar scene; the customers tend to be a bit older, and many of them are tourists. Mulberry Street, a new restaurant located on Elleair Golf Course, is quickly establishing a reputation as an upscale dance club.

People who are trying to eat cheap on Maui won't find a better place than Kihei. Among the best inexpensive eateries are Kihei Caffe, Maui Tacos and Alexanders. The Coffee Store is a great place for a chilly espresso drink any time of day.

Wailea:

The South Side equivalent of Ka'anapali boasts a wealth of fine dining options--and very little else. All of the hotels have at least two gourmet restaurants; some have more. Standouts include Humuhumu at the Grand Wailea, Nicks Fishmarket in the Kea Lani, and for buffet dining, the Palm Court at the Renaissance Wailea. For Sunday Brunch, the Maui Prince puts on a fabulous spread. Less expensive options are few and far between, but the Maui Onion is popular for lunch. Joes Bar & Grill, owned by the creators of the Hailemaile General Store, promises to become a favorite right away.

Kahului:

Its not always easy to figure out where to eat in Kahului. The town is spread out, and except for the two major malls, restaurants aren't in any one location. Probably the best known restaurant in Kahului is Marcos, followed by Kohos--the quintessential family restaurant. Many small eateries are scattered throughout Kahului, but they are not distinctive in any way. If you happen to be in the neighborhood and are hungry, stop at any one of the locally owned taco shops, plate lunch stands or Thai places for a quick bite.

Wailuku:

Surprisingly, though Wailuku is as local and un-beautiful of a town as Kahului, it has a number of excellent restaurants, mostly ethnic. If you can find your way to either A Taste of Saigon or Saigon Cafe' you won't be disappointed. Saengs Thai is delicious and inexpensive--not to mention central.

Pa'ia:

Health food nuts should make Pa'ia their first, last and only stop for dining. The health-conscious restaurants far outnumber the unconcerned ones in this charming little town. Whether you're enjoying enormous breakfasts at Charleys, vegetarian curry at Bangkok Thai, or perhaps packing a picnic lunch at--where else? Picnics--you're sure to get something delicious, fresh and healthful. At dinnertime, the Pa'ia Fishmarket is a delicious and inexpensive option.

Just outside of Pa'ia one will find a true Maui legend, and a must-visit for any self-respecting gourmand. This is Mamas Fish House. The cuisine, ambience and service are legendary--and deservedly so. A meal here is an unforgettable experience.

Makawao, Kula, Pukalani:

There are only a few destination restaurants in rural Upcountry Maui. On the road to Haleakala there are two standouts: the Hali'imaile General Store and the Kula Lodge. In Makawao Town, theres only one place to go for night time entertainment: the famous Casanovas. If its more of a peaceful occasion, make reservations at the Makawao Steak House. Last (but not least) is the Hana Restaurant. It is more than a two hour drive from Pa'ia or Kula, but for people who happen to be in that part of the rainforest, its not one to miss.

Restaurants on Maui change constantly. The booming economy and optimistic attitudes of restaurateurs make the island dining scene entertaining, diverse, and very hard to keep up with! At the time of this article, several restaurants are planning to open, while several others are planning--more quietly--to close the doors. Dining in Maui is only as much of a science as you make it. If you're just looking for a good time, a quick bite, or a pretty meal, trust your own judgement.

-Lena Katz

---------------History

In the Beginning

Approximately five million years ago, an undersea eruption created two volcanic mountains, Mauna Kahalawai and Haleakala. Mauna Kahalawai, now an extinct volcano, became the rugged West Maui Mountains. Majestic 10,023-foot Haleakala, meaning 'house of the sun,' last erupted in 1790 and is now considered a dormant volcano. Centuries of lava flows and erosion created an isthmus between the two mountains. This vale composed of rich volcanic soil gave Maui the nickname 'Valley Isle.'

According to ancient legend, the Hawai'ian islands were created by Maui, the 'god of a thousand tricks,' who pulled the islands from the ocean with his magic fishhook. This mythical demigod also lassoed the sun god 'La' from atop Haleakala, releasing it only after it promised to move slowly through the sky, thus providing abundant daylight and warmth for the islands.

Maui County, now four islands, was originally one land mass called 'Maui-Nui.' During the polar ice age, the glaciers thawed and the oceans swelled to separate the mountain peaks into the islands of Maui, Molokai, Lanai and Kaho'olawe.

The First Settlers

According to legend, Hawai'i-loa and eight navigating seafarers from the Marquesa islands, 2,000 miles to the south, discovered the Hawai'ian islands in the eighth century A.D. The first inhabitants developed a simple agrarian culture, growing taro plant and grinding the root into their food staple, poi. They also built canoes and fished, constructed grass huts for dwelling, erected crude stone temples and wove tapa cloth.

Around the twelfth century A.D, the Tahitians arrived in Maui. They were led by chiefs who became the ali'i, the Hawai'ian ruling class. The Tahitians established the 'kapu' system, the rigid social order that became the foundation of ancient Hawaiian culture. Additionally, they introduced their religion with its many goddesses. Haleki'i and Pihana, two archeological sites in the Iao Valley, are religious structures built by Tahitian ali'i. The full name of Pihana is actually Pihanakalani, meaning 'a gathering place of the ali'i.'

For several centuries, warfare raged among competing ali'i on Maui and between chieftains from the neighboring islands of Oahu and Hawai'i. In 1550 AD the Ali'i Pi'ilani unified all the Maui districts, and after he died his two sons battled for control of the island. With the help of warriors from Hawai'i, Kiha-a-pi'ilani prevailed to become the supreme ruler of Maui.

Maui Becomes Part of the Monarchy

During the late 1700s, Kamehameha I, ruler of the big island Hawai'i, invaded the adjacent islands to establish the Hawaiian Kingdom. One of his armies, led by Kalani'opu'u, attacked Maui in 1776. He was soundly defeated by the warriors of King Kahekili, who surprised the invaders by hiding behind the sand dunes at Maalaea Bay. However, in 1790, Kamehameha I invaded Maui once again, this time with a fleet of war canoes so large it is alleged to have filled the bay from Hana to Kahului. Kamehameha finally conquered Maui in the brutal battle of Wailuku, where after two days of intense fighting he unleashed a cannon operated by two European soldiers. The Maui army, commanded by Kalanikapule (King Kahekilis son), was forced to retreat into Iao Valley, where they tried to escape by scaling the steep cliffs. This historic battle is now known as Kauwaupali ('clawed off the cliff') and Kepaniwai ('the damming of the waters'). In 1802 Kamehameha I built the 'brick palace' in Lahaina, where he lived for a year.

The Influx of Westerners

The British explorer Captain James Cook landed in Kahului Bay on November 26, 1778, an event that began the influx of Western influence. French explorer Captain Jean-Francois La Crouse, the first Westerner to settle on Maui, established a village in 1786. Probably the most significant influence was that of the Christian missionaries, who founded the first mission under Reverend Richards in Lahaina in 1823. In 1824 Kaahumanu, Mauis regent under Kamehameha II, issued a code of laws based on the Ten Commandments. During this time, whaling had begun to boom in Lahaina, a development that swiftly introduced some of the more unsavory Western elements to the port town. A riot broke out in 1825 when a law was passed prohibiting the sale of alcohol. Whalers attacked the Richards' home, but were unsuccessful in squelching the Christian presence. Meanwhile, the missionaries established their instrumental role in educating the local population. Since the Hawaiians had no written language, the missionaries developed a written language based on a twelve-letter alphabet. The Lahainaluna Mission School was opened in 1831 and a seminary for girls was founded in 1836. In 1835, the governor of Maui ordered all children over four to attend school. Missionaries taught reading, writing and Bible studies in Hawaiian, and by 1850, Hawaii had the worlds highest literacy rate!

Unfortunately, the Westerners also brought diseases that over the next century would obliterate the native Hawaiian population. Viruses such as measles that were endemic in Westerners had a devastating effect on the previously unexposed Hawaiians. Soon the ratio of Hawaiians to immigrants began to drastically decrease.

Commercial Growth and the Advent of Tourism

As Western traders and seafarers flocked to Maui, commercial growth expanded. Lahaina became a major port during the whaling era, and by the 1840s, hundreds of ships anchored there. Merchants, prostitutes, saloons, and gambling establishments prospered, although tensions between the whalers and missionaries created social unrest. The discovery of oil in 1850 signified the decline of whaling.

Agriculture also flourished because of foreign influence. In 1828, Kamehameha III built the first sugar mill in Maui, a water-powered mill designed by two Chinese technicians. George Wilfong, an entrepreneurial whaler, established Mauis first sugar plantation in Hana. During 1853-1854, a smallpox epidemic killed many native Hawaiians, resulting in a depleted work force. Immigrants from China, Japan, the Philippines, and even Europe flocked to Maui to work in the sugar cane fields. American businessmen began to invest in pineapple and sugar plantations, and in 1875 negotiated a reciprocity treaty with the governor of Maui to protect their investments.

The expansion of foreign power and influence ultimately led to the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy in 1893. In 1894, American pineapple tycoon Dole became the governor of the Republic of Hawaii, which was annexed to the United States in 1898 and made a U.S. territory in 1890. During the early 1900s, Japanese immigration swelled; Mauis population was forty percent Japanese by 1925. The American military presence in Hawaii was also expanding during this time, and the U.S. Navy established its Pacific headquarters in Pearl Harbor.

The opening of the Pioneer Hotel in 1901 signaled the beginning of tourism in Lahaina. Visitors Mark Twain and Robert Lewis Stevenson praised Maui, and Lahaina became a vacation hot spot for the rich and famous. After World War II, sugar production declined and tourism experienced phenomenal growth. Mauis first resort hotel, Hotel Hana, was opened in 1946. After Hawaii became the 50th state in 1959, investment capitol poured in for development of vacation resorts. Kaanapali, dubbed the worlds first 'master planned resort,' and site of such mega-resorts as the Ka'anapali Beach Hotel and the Hyatt Regency, was built in 1961, followed by the development of the Ritz Carlton and Kapalua Bay resorts in West Maui. In the 1970s, sunny South Maui, with its great snorkeling beaches and constant sunshine, was discovered. Over the next few years, several plush resorts and championship golf courses were developed in Wailea. Most recently, the opening of the magnificent Maui Prince resort signified the spread of commercialization to the very southern tip of Maui, Makena Beach.